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Port Alice, BC: Marvel at Wild Beauty of North Vancouver Island “Beast”

Port Alice, BC is the undiscovered, unexpected gem to include on your Vancouver Island North’s road trip: fun family things to do, places to stay, travel tips, why check the weather and tide schedule before your visit. 

Port Alice is a small village in the Northern part of Vancouver Island, located on Neroutsos Inlet British Columbia, Canada. Not much to see, or so we thought… What we didn’t expect on our Vancouver Island North road trip is to find a stunning, French Riviera-like but non-touristy and wild place with Beautiful British Columbia’s virgin nature that has literally blown us away. In our post we’ll share epic photos of Port Alice as seen in Summer 2021, travel tips, nearby nature attractions and hikes to explore, things to do, and – key – why you need to check the weather and tide schedule before visiting Port Alice. 

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Quick Links:

• Port Alice History
• Modern Port Alice 
• Getting there
• Things to Do
• Travel Tips

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Port Alice History

Port Alice was originally built by Whalen Pulp and Paper Mills of Vancouver who operated three local pulps in the area in 1920’s . It is said that the village was named after Alice Whalen – one of the enterprise owners’ family members. 

In 1965, Port Alice became B.C.’s first instant municipality, and the newer-built village replaced the historical town a few miles up the Neroutsos inlet.

To learn more about the history of the region, check out “Northern Vancouver Island ~ The Undiscovered Coast and also this blog “The Town That Moved”

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Modern Port Alice

Today’s Port Alice is, frankly, nothing much. Its regular population is under a 1000 people, swelling by a couple of hundred in the summer months when tourism season is on. The Town Hall page is here. 

Port Alice has a few shops and a coffee shop, a gas station, a hotel, few locally operated Bed & Breakfast places, an RV campsite, Dan Nordin Artist’s Gallery, a well-operational marina and a yacht club, and even its own hospital and a gold club – Port Alice Golf & Country Club

A recent addition to the village infrastructure is a recreational complex with a fully-equipped gym, weight room, hockey rink and curling ice.

There’s been talks in the recent years of building a kayak and canoe rental facility, yet to-date [2022] these plans are on hold due to covid-related tourism slowdown. 

While you do have to bring your own boat to enjoy the adventures on the water, no one has forbidden you to look. The opposite, Port Alice boasts a 3-km long scenic Seawalk from which you can let your eyes drift across and admire the stunning landscape. 

Interestingly, the small islands you see from port Alice’s marina look incredibly similar to the Maligne Lake’s Spirit Island in Alberta. The “Rockies” are much lower of course, but marvellously beautiful nonetheless. 

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How To Get to Port Alice, BC

Port Alice is located at the far North of North Vancouver Island. When you are off the BC Ferries, the driving time from Nanaimo to Port McNeil is about 4 hours, and another 45min to an hour to Port Alice depending on the weather conditions and on the season. 

On our recent road trip to North Vancouver Island we stayed in Port Hardy for a few days and explored the nearby coastal towns and nature parks from there.

Port Hardy to Port Alice drive time is also 45min to an hour. 

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Things to Do in and near Port Alice, British Columbia

Port Alice is relatively known – mostly to locals to North Vancouver Island though – for picturesque hiking, mountain biking, water sports, fishing and wildlife. 

To be honest, unless you are into fishing or are sailing to Port Alice in a yacht, there is not much to do here. You can try out and enjoy all Port Alice has to offer over 2-3 days at most. Yet, those 2-3 days will be spent with much quality by your entire family – that we guarantee. 

Water Sports

Port Alice, BC is called “a gateway to the West Coast of Vancouver Island” for a reason. With a boat or kayak, through the Neroutsos inlet, and then the Quatsino Sound a traveller can access the Pacific ocean. As a result: typically inaccessible regions, such as Brooks Peninsula or Kyuquot town, can now be reached. 

Port Alice village operates a well-equipped local marina and a yacht club. 

The facilities at the marina include public bathrooms and a shower. 

Interestingly, at Port Alice, there are kids life jackets available to anyone to borrow for free. Kids' water safety is definitely taken seriously in Canada. 

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Bring-Your-Own-Boat

While it is possible to access the waters at Port Alice, you should bring your own boat or kayak with you. 

A few years back there were talks about opening up a kayak rental facility with the purpose of attracting more tourism to this part of Vancouver Island – yet the plan is still a plan, and paused likely due to covid-related reasons. 

We do encourage you to bring your own kayak or even a paddle board. 

On a hot and sunny summer day, the water colour at Port Alice is of the most stunning blue. The few little islands seen from Port Alice’s marina can be paddled over to. From the distance some do look stunningly similar to Maligne Lake’s Spirit Island in Alberta, Canada. 

The waters are full of marine life – you can literally touch a school of fish, or sail closer to the islands and watch colourful starfish and algae. You kids will be blown away!

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Wildlife Watching

Located within the pristine wilderness of North Vancouver Island, Port Alice is obviously notorious for its wildlife. 

While exploring in and around Port Alice, it is practically impossible not to see eagles, many marine birds and seals. Moreover: if you travel further Quatsino Sound and towards the ocean, it is even possible to spot whales!

Bears, of course, do not forget that North Vancouver Island is home to a numerous black bear population. It is always recommended to carry bear spray when hiking in the wilderness. 

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Sea Otter Tours

Sea Otters feel like home in the inlet and the Quatsino Sound. Chartering a local Sea Otter tour will be definitely a highlight for your family road trip to North Vancouver Island.

Here are some companies you can try to book a tour with: 

• Rumble Beach Eco Tours

In the summer months of July and August, it is better to book your tour in advance, as yes they do sell out. 

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Fishing at Port Alice, BC

There are many fishing opportunities at Port Alice, BC. You can bring your own boat, but you can also charter a private Fishing Tour through locals.

• Rumble Beach Fishing Charters is a local company operated by guides with over 40 years of experience. 
• Murrmaid Ventures 
• It is possible to book your fishing charter through the local Alice Anglers Inn 

I am only listing fishing companies local to Port Alice here. Yet there are many more operating out of Port Hardy and Port McNeil – less than an hour drive from Port Alice – on the Easter side of North Vancouver Island. 

The game includes: wild west coast salmon, halibut, cod, shrimp, crab. If you venture further Quatsino Sound and towards the ocean, it is even possible to spot whales! Not for hunting of course – but makes incredible British Columbia wildlife photo opportunities!

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Marble River Provincial Park

The easiest to reach outdoor destination around Port Alice is Marble River Provincial Park. Its well-developed recreation area offers kids-friendly hiking trails through the park and leading down to the Marble River rapids. In addition, if you are into fishing, Marble River is known as one of the North Vancouver Island’s best fishing rivers for steelhead.

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Eternal Fountain Hike

And now, let’s explore the more wild side of Port Alice’s nature attractions 🙂

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Eternal Fountain site is a small underground river network with a few stream resurgence waterfalls that flows into swallets. The hike is not that long – less than an hour easy loop perfect for hiking with small kids. There are wooden pathways built along the trail to ensure hikers wont deroute and accidentally fall through to one of the underground caves. 

The hiking trail winds its way through a second growth forest and offers views of cute little disappearing and reappearing streams and tiny waterfalls. 

It is always reasonable to take bear spray with you when hiking the Eternal Fountain site as there are not many people around, and black bears live in the area.

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IMPORTANT: The Google Maps are wrong! The maps do not show the actual road from Port Alice to the Eternal Fountain site parking – the map takes you around. In fact, the driving distance from Port Alice to Eternal Fountain is half to what Google Maps is showing – only about half hour.

Here is how to get to Eternal Fountain from Port Alice, BC:  

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Devil’s Bath

Port Alice’s Devil's Bath is regarded as one of Canada‘s largest cenotes measuring 359m around and 44m deep. 

The Devil's Bath connects to the Benson River which is 200m to the northwest through a series of cave passages 80m below the water level. 

The hike to Devil’s Bath is not actually a hike, but a short walk from the parking lot to the viewing platform. Yes, the view of the cenote is somewhat decent from this platform, but I had to unpack my aerial drone to have a serious peak into the dark waters below. 

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Trail to Benson River Caves

If you feel like it [NOT RECOMMENDED], there is a longer hike around the Devil’s Bath and down to the Benson River. 

The path is completely wild though! You have to be crazy to go! …well, oops. we did it 🙂

You’ll literally fight the bushes, crawl under tree roots, walk over fallen tree trunks, and slide rocky slides supported by ropes. This trail is DANGEROUS and NOT recommended to do with kids. 

The hike to Benson River is the main adventure. As when you finally get to the caves down below.. …Well, for us the caves were somewhat disappointing. There isn't much at all. Crawling back to the parking lot of the Devil’s Bath was quite fun yet again!

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Merry Widow Ridge Hike

Out of all Port Alice’s hiking opportunities, Merry Widow Ridge hike is most picturesque. You are out on a 6.5km out-and-back trail to Merry Widow Mountain, British Columbia. 

Here, the subalpine forest trail leads up and along high, open alpine ridges. The summit is a moderately challenging scramble, yet its award – the spectacular views of the Inlet and Port Alice.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Brianne (@briannehagerty)

Check out AllTrails for complete info and trail map of the Merry Widow Ridge Hike, North Vancouver Island, British Columbia. 

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Port Alice Travel Tips

Best Time to Visit Port Alice

The best time to visit Port Alice is during the Summer months of July and August. Due to its location, the weather at Port Alice is generally much cooler than the rest of Vancouver Island. July and August are the warmest months. Still, you should expect +20 to +24 C during the day, and lower to +15 C at night. 

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Port Alice Weather

It is extremely important to check the weather before heading to Port Alice. If the rain is expected – do not go. You won't be able to see the sheer beauty of the Inlet, and won't get the same awe-inspiring impression that we have discovered. You won't likely ever return to Port Alice, BC ever if your first visit will be in the bad weather. 

Port Alice weather forecast can be found here. 

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Port Alice Tide Schedule

Similarly to the weather forecast, it is beneficial to check Port Alice’s tide schedule before planning your water adventures. If your plan is to kayak with kids and see cool marine life like starfish and corals – it is best to plan your adventure for the low tide. 

Tide schedule for Port Alice can be found here. 

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Engage your Kids and Get them leading about British Columbia

Road trips are definitely a lot of fun for the entire family. Yet the frequent rides from place to place, or waiting for your room to be ready at a local hotel could be exhausting for your little ones. For this purpose our team has put together a printable activity kit specifically for road trips across British Columbia! Check it the British Columbia Educational Colouring and Activity Book.

We get it, if you have small kids, it is sometimes a bit hard to get them interested in all this walking everywhere. One of the tricks we use is are the Outdoor Treasure-hunt sheets! Cosmos got his own camera phone (my old iPhone) and he is always excited to run along the trail and collect photographs of the little treasures to get a treat at the end! Download our Treasure Hunt Sheets below for FREE. OR Click HERE for more kids' activities and parents' resources.

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Where to Stay at Port Alice

While you can definitely aim at staying in Port Alice itself, it only makes sense if you are arriving by means of a boat or a yacht, or are driving your own RV. 

On a “standard” family car road trip to North Vancouver Island, we recommend to opt in to rather stay at a more central location – either Port Hardy or Port McNeil – and explore from there. 

One of the reasons is – places to stay at Port Alice are extremely limited. There are two dozen vacation rental rooms at Port Alice, BC available altogether. Secondly, when staying at Port Hardy or Port MacNeil, your options to explore far North of Vancouver Island are much greater.  The drive is much shorter from here to, for example, Cape Scott Provincial Park, San Josefs Bay and Telegraph Cove – the other must-have bucket-list locations to explore on your North Vancouver Island family road trip.

Yet if you do decide to stay at Port Alice village still, here are the available options to consider booking. 

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Inns and B&B

Alice Anglers Inn – is a small little inn. It only has 6 rooms, but is very close to Port Alice’s marina. 

Inlet Heaven B&B – a small Bed and Breakfast has only 5 rooms. Yet the view from its patio is simply stunning. 

AirBnB options by local residents could be a good fit. Yet last time I checked, there are less than a dozen places that offer vacation rentals in Port Alice, BC. So you’d have to book way in advance if your plan is to visit Port Alice in July or August.  

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Camping

The Oceanfront Campground is right in the village – just across the street from the water. It offers full RV hook-ups.

You can choose to camp at one of the nearby lakes too. Link River Regional Park campsite on Alice Lake is about a 20-minute drive from town, and features waterfront and woods sites, outhouses, a playground, dock, and boat launch. Spruce Bay Campsite is another lakeside option on beautiful Victoria Lake.

And finally, the Marble River Provincial Park camping option located approximately 15 km north of Port Alice – just on the way from Port MacNeil and Port Hardy. This park offers well-maintained recreation sites – both along the Marble river and deeper in the forest too. 

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Your Car Requirements

The proper choice of a vehicle for your family road trip will dictate whether you'll be even able to make it into the wilderness of the Vancouver Island North.

Once you get from Victoria or Nanaimo to Port Hardy – the good road stops.

There on, from Port Hardy to Port Alice [in 2022] the road was on-and-off paved/gravel condition.

And further beyond – to Eternal Fountain, Merry Widow Mountain hike, Devil's Bath and anywhere around – the road is coarse gravel logging road.

Therefore when heading into the North Vancouver Island's wilderness in your family vehicle, at the very minimum, make sure that:

• Your car has a high clearance – sports cars wont do
• You have a spare tire and tools to change the wheel. Learn how to change a flat in advance – you wont be able to watch YouTube here as most areas wont have cell reception service.
• 4×4 is recommended. Ours was a four-wheel drive
• Your vehicle has a working Air Conditioning system
• Bring plenty of water, and have food in your vehicle
• Get flashlight and a bear spray – in case you'll have to walk to a nearby village

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Cell Reception at Port Alice, BC

While there is no issue with cell reception and data traffic at Port Alice village itself and along the way from Port Hardy and Port McNeil to Port Alice, the network disappears as soon as you venture towards the wilderness. 

We recommend downloading your google maps in advance to use in the offline mode. 

We also recommend using the AllTrails App for your hiking plans and downloading hiking maps in advance as well.

When heading to the wilderness, also have a “safety buddy” – let someone know where you are going and when you are planning to return with the promise of messaging back as soon as you are “out and back to safety”. 

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Personal Satellite Locator Beacons

If you own one of the Satellite-linked GPS tracking personal safety devices – tak it with you on your North Vancouver Island road trip, as many cool outdoor locations do not have any cell reception whatsoever. Considering most of North Vancouver Island, and Port Alice, are destinations generally less known and less popular – there are not many people on the roads here. Without cell reception, activating an alarm on your satellite beacon device may be your only option in case of something unfortunate happening. 

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Concluding notes

There is nothing like a good road trip to spice up your summer and bond the entire family together. Our outdoorsy family tries to plan at least one week-long road trip per summer – luckily the Beautiful British Columbia has blessed us with many family friendly destinations to check out. Yet sometimes we venture even further into Canada – Alberta is stunning!

Port Alice was an unexpected discovery that we have enjoyed very much. Yet, the season and the weather in which you visit Port Alice will determine whether you'd be able to enjoy this little cute town as much as we did.

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Port Alice as seen from an Aerial Drone

While we have also shot some cool aerial drone video footage when travelling to Port Alice and all around North Vancouver Island, we still haven't taken time to actually edit it. Sorry.

Instead, for now, and until we can finalise our own, check out this video done my our fellow traveller and outdoor adventurer to Port Alice:  

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Other Cool Little towns of British Columbia Similar to Port Alice

The best thing about road trips is that your family can discover marvellous small little towns that would otherwise have likely never made it to the list of purposeful destinations. Yet each such town is adorable and worth a stop.

Among some of such British Columbia‘s small “off the beaten path” towns we recommend visiting on your next road trip are:

• Sooke town and nearby outdoors hiking opportunities – Vancouver Island, BC
• Cumberland, BC – on Vancouver Island
• Campbell River, BC – on Vancouver Island
• Port Hardy, BC – on Vancouver Island
• Lund, BC on Sunshine Coast
• Madeira Park, BC – on Sunshine Coast
• Fort Langley, BC – on the border of Metro Vancouver and Fraser Valley
• Harrison Hot Springs – near Hope, BC in Fraser Valley
• Atchelitz Pioneer Village at Chilliwack, BC in Fraser Valley Region
• Sun Peaks Resort Village – near Kamloops, in Thompson-Nicola Region

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Check out next: latest outdoors and travel experiences in British Columbia, Canada

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Enjoy!

Cheerfully yours,

Alexandra, Alex & Cosmos

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